Since you are reading this post, Vashlovani National Park is likely already on your radar. Perhaps photos on the internet inspired you, or you were drawn in by titles like the “Georgian Africa” or the “Georgian Wild East.” Maybe it was a friend’s recommendation, or you have done in-depth research and think you know exactly what to expect.
It doesn’t matter – you are destined to be surprised!.
I have been visiting Vashlovani for more than 20 years, and every trip offers something new. The more familiar I become with it, the harder it is to say exactly what fascinates me the most.
This post is less about why you should visit Vashlovani, but more about how to do it and how to get the maximum value from your time in the park. In this practical guide, we provide local insights and the latest updates from the ground: road conditions, accommodation realities, border limitations, and more.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Vashlovani National Park is situated in the extreme south-eastern part of Georgia. The final gateway to the park is the town of Dedoplistskaro. The town is 130 km from Tbilisi, which translates to approximately 1 hour and 50 minutes of driving. From Dedoplistskaro to the actual park entrance is another 50-60 km.
The Dedoplistskaro municipality is one of the least populated regions in the country. Most residents live in the north-western section, leaving the rest of the land empty and wild. As you leave the town, the road becomes increasingly difficult, especially in rainy conditions. The combination of limited information, long distances, challenging roads, and confusing bureaucracy can make visiting Vashlovani complicated – unless you come prepared.
Registration and Permits
The journey begins not at the park gates, but in Dedoplistskaro. This is the last outpost of civilization, and stopping here is mandatory. Before your tires touch the dirt tracks, you must navigate the local bureaucracy.
You must first visit the National Park Visitor Centre (Park Administration) to register yourself and your vehicle, and pay the modest entry fees (10 GEL per person; 50 GEL per car) and prepare the permit.
However, the paperwork doesn’t end there. Because Vashlovani borders Azerbaijan, you need to receive the document that grants you legal access to the riverbanks dividing the two nations.
Step-by-Step Permit Guide: (Note: Booking a tour usually makes this process seamless as the operator handles it for you).
- Park Administration: Present your passport, car details, dates of visit, and planned route.
- Referral: They prepare a letter for the border guards. You take this physical letter (or sometimes they send it digitally) to the Border Police office in Dedoplistskaro.
- Border Police: You will be given an application form to fill out (you can also download it here to fill it out in advance).
- The Permit: After 15-20 minutes, you will receive a stamped paper. You must keep this with you at all times inside the park and present it to border guards along with your passport.
Note: Delays can happen. Do not create a schedule that is too tight.
Tip: Park Administration opens at 9:00 and closes at 18:00, but it is highly recommended to apply for the permit no later than 16:00.
The Drive: Taming the Terrain
Leaving the town behind, the asphalt crumbles away. This is where the machine matters.
A 4×4 with high clearance and brutal-looking tires is not a luxury – it is a requirement. The terrain is a mix of dirt, sand, gravel, and dried riverbeds with deep ruts. While it is true that people sometimes visit with smaller 4×4 crossovers (SUVs), these cars are not built for such punishment and often suffer mechanical failures. Furthermore, if it rains, the roads can turn into clay traps; capable off-roaders with mud tires can usually keep moving, while standard SUVs will get stuck.
If you are renting a car for your general trip to Georgia, ensure it is a potent 4×4. Alternatively, you can book a tour from Dedoplistskaro or rent a specialised vehicle with a local driver.
Transport: Traveling Without a Car
If you do not have a vehicle, you can take public transport from Tbilisi to Dedoplistskaro and arrange a tour locally.
- Shared Taxi: Departs near the Isani Metro Station. Cost: 15 GEL per person. This is generally faster and more comfortable, though they wait for the car to fill up before departing.
- Minibus (Marshrutka): Departs from Samgori. Cost: 10 GEL per person.
Minibus Schedule (Subject to change):
- From Tbilisi: 8:30, 11:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00.
- From Dedoplistskaro: 7:30, 8:30, 9:30, 10:30, 12:00, 13:00, 14:45.
Supplies: The Last Outpost
Dedoplistskaro is where you must stock up. Once you pass the town limits, there are no gas stations, no convenience stores, and most critically, no drinking water sources. You must carry everything you need for the duration of your stay.
Local Tip: At Savanna Guest House, we offer lunchboxes for travellers, but please let us know a day in advance!
When to Visit Vashlovani
Vashlovani is unique because it is accessible year-round (contrary to some internet myths), unless it is not muddy.
- Late April – May: The best time to visit. Vegetation is lush, flowers are blooming, breeding birds have arrived, and the temperature is pleasant. Wildlife is generally more exposed.
- Summer: It can be scorching hot. However, this is when you experience the true, harsh wilderness. Biodiversity here clings to life in summer, which is a sight to behold. Day trips involving more driving and less hiking make the heat manageable.
- September – October: The second “high season.” Temperatures drop (though September can still be hot), birds are present, and autumn colors take center stage.
- Winter: An excellent time to visit, provided the roads are dry. The landscape is less colorful, but the shapes and silhouettes of the pistachio trees and ridges create a stunning playground for photographers.
Itinerary Options
Crucial Advice: If you plan to visit for just one day, I strongly recommend spending the night before and after the trip in Dedoplistskaro. If you want a genuine connection with nature, do not attempt Mijniskure in one day. While theoretically possible, it becomes a rushed off-road rally rather than a nature trip.
Route A: The Classic Full-Day Loop (Approx. 180 km | 10 hours total | 5-6 hours driving)
- Departure from Dedoplistskaro
- Shiraki Abandoned Military Airfield
- Vashlovani Rangers’ Station
- Pantishara Canyon and Bear Gorge (short walk available)
- Samukhi Valley – Spotting Gazelles (Midpoint)
- Border Police Station
- Silence Amphitheatre
- Return to Dedoplistskaro
Route B: Two Days in Vashlovani (Approx. 200 km total | 10 hours each day | 5 hours driving each day)
Day 1:
- Departure from Dedoplistskaro
- Vashlovani Rangers’ Station
- Pantishara Canyon and Bear Gorge
- Samukhi Valley – Spotting Gazelles
- Border Police Station
- Usakhelo Viewpoint
- Overnight at Mijniskure
Day 2:
- Sunrise hike on nearby hills
- Departure to Takhistskali
- Black Mountain (Midpoint)
- Shiraki Abandoned Military Airfield
- Return to Dedoplistskaro
Accommodation
Inside Vashlovani:
- Park Bungalows: Located at the Central Bungalows and Mijniskure (the latter is much more popular).
- Cost: Central Bungalows: 100 GEL; Mijniskure: 150 GEL. Rates are per bungalow (capacity: 4 people). Please note: These units are currently under renovation and are scheduled to reopen in April.
- Condition: Do not expect hotel cleanliness or luxury. However, in this remote area, a shelter with a soft mattress is a luxury in itself. Bungalows have showers with hot water and electricity for a few hours in the evening.
- Warning: Amenities (taps/heaters) often malfunction. In summer, bungalows can become unbearably hot at night – so hot that sleep is difficult.
- Bedding: Ask the administration for linen when booking. If unavailable, you can rent a set at Savanna Guest House (10 GEL) or bring a sleeping bag.
- Camping: Available in designated areas (extra 10 GEL per person). Most sites are near ranger stations and include a fire pit, picnic benches, and a pit latrine (dry toilet).
- Water: Technical water (non-drinking) is available at Vashlovani Ranger Station, Central Bungalows, and Mijniskure.
- Gear: Bring your own tent, drinking water, food, and firewood/coal.
In Dedoplistskaro:
Tip: For the best experience, choose a family-run guesthouse for local insights and homemade food.
- Savanna Guest House: This is our family-run establishment. We offer a comfortable stay with a large green garden – perfect for chilling with a glass of wine or beer after a tiring trip. We also offer meals and have a small shop with souvenirs and local products.
- Teo’s Cottages: I also highly recommend this family-run spot on the periphery of town, within walking distance of Eagle Canyon.
Safety and Wildlife
- Driving: Generally safe, but mud is the enemy. If the road is slippery, do not attempt the roads to Mijniskure, along the Alazani River, or Black Mountain. You risk sliding into deep trouble.
- Snakes: Snakes are abundant. The Levantine Viper (or Blunt-nosed Viper / Macrovipera lebetina) is the one to be aware of. Its venom is dangerous.
- Safety: Stay on trails, look where you step, and never try to catch or approach a snake. They are shy and avoid humans. Bites are extremely rare.
- Protocol: If bitten, keep the person still, offer liquids, and call 112. Do not cut the wound or suck the venom. Emergency services may ask you to drive toward them to meet the ambulance.
- Shepherd Dogs: Large livestock guarding dogs are common, especially in winter pasture areas. They are protective of their flocks and can be aggressive.
- Safety: Avoid walking near flocks of sheep. If you see a flock nearby, stay in your car.
Packing List
- Protection: Anti-mosquito spray (seasonally dependent). Note: Georgia is certified Malaria-free by the WHO.
- Water: 4-5 Liters per person (There is NO drinking water in the park).
- Fuel: Fill up completely in Dedoplistskaro.
- Navigation: Download OsmAnd. Google Maps is unreliable in the park.
- Documents: Passport and Permit are mandatory at checkpoints.
- Optics: Binoculars are essential for spotting vultures and gazelles.
Common Myths and Realities
- Myth: “The Park is inaccessible in winter.”
- Reality: Only true if it is muddy. Dry winter days are beautiful.
- Myth: “Summer is dangerous because of snakes.”
- Reality: In the heat, snakes become nocturnal and are rarely seen during the day.
- Myth: “Beware of Malaria.”
- Reality: Georgia is malaria-free.
Know Before You Go to Vashlovani
- You need a permit to access significant parts of the park.
- Large camper trucks and motorcycles are prohibited inside the park.
- Vashlovani is not a hiking destination (except for short walks). High temperatures and shepherd dogs make long treks dangerous.
- There is no mobile signal or Wi-Fi in most of the park.
- Do not rely blindly on park signage; it is sometimes missing or damaged.
- Do not rely solely on offline maps; road conditions change faster than map updates.
Still have a question? Leave it in the comment section below or send us an email. We are happy to help you plan your adventure!
